How to Choose Your First Motorcycle Helmet (2026 Beginner Guide)
Last Updated January 8, 2026
You just passed your MSF course. Your bike's in the driveway. And you're staring at 47 motorcycle helmets online, completely paralyzed by choices.
Which one won't kill you? Which one won't break the bank? And why does every rider on Reddit have a completely different opinion?
Here at Sprocketz in Richmond, we fit first-time riders every single week. They all walk in with the same overwhelmed look, ask the same three questions, and leave with confidence they're making the right choice.
This guide will walk you through exactly how to choose your first motorcycle helmet - without the jargon, without the sales pitch, and without spending a dime more than necessary.
What you'll learn:
- The 3 questions every new rider asks (and our honest answers)
- Which helmet type is right for beginners
- How to get the fit right on your first try
- What you actually get at each price point ($150 vs. $300 vs. $500)
- Common first-helmet mistakes and how to avoid them
This article is part of our comprehensive Ultimate Beginner Gear Guide - your complete resource for gearing up head-to-toe as a new rider.
The 3 Questions Every New Rider Asks (And Our Honest Answers)
Walk into any motorcycle gear shop as a first-time buyer, and you'll probably ask one of these three questions. Our helmet specialist Brian has heard them approximately 1,000 times. Here are his honest answers.
Question 1: "Do I Really Need to Spend $400 on My First Helmet?"
Short answer: We strongly recommend prioritizing a high-end helmet. This is the single best investment you can make in your motorcycle gear, whether you're a beginner or an experienced rider. High-end helmets offer significantly better strength and support compared to entry-level options, in addition to superior features and overall quality.
High-end motorcycle helmets feature shells constructed from either carbon fiber or fiberglass. These materials offer superior strength, which enhances the helmet's ability to "glance off" impacts. This increased strength also allows manufacturers to incorporate a multi-density Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) liner. The multi-density EPS liner can be strategically softened in specific areas to provide greater protection to the rider upon impact.
Here's what you actually get at each price tier:
$100-$150: Budget Entry Point
- DOT certification (legal minimum)
- Basic impact protection
- Heavier weight (3.5-4 lbs)
- Minimal ventilation (2-3 vents)
- Basic comfort features
$200-$300: Budget with better features
- DOT + ECE 22.06 certification
- Better ventilation (4-6 adjustable vents)
- Lighter weight (3-3.5 lbs)
- Removable/washable liners
- Improved aerodynamics = less wind noise
- Better quality control
$600+: Best Protection, fit, overall experience
- DOT + ECE + SNELL certification
- Lightest weight (2.8-3.2 lbs)
- Best noise reduction (quietest ride)
- Premium comfort materials
- Advanced features (drop-down sun visor, Pinlock anti-fog, emergency release)
- Carbon fiber options
- Example models: Shoei RF-1400, Arai Contour-X, Alpinestars R10
Our honest recommendation: Investing in a high end helmet is the best investment you can make when purchasing motorcycle gear, beginner or experienced.
Question 2: "Can I Just Buy It Online Without Trying It On?"
Honest answer: Risky, but doable if you know your head shape and size.
Here's the problem: helmet manufacturers design their helmets for different head shapes. You might be a medium in one brand and a large in another. Worse, you might fit a medium HJC perfectly but a medium Scorpion will give you temple headaches because your head shape doesn't match.
If you're buying online:
- Know your head shape first (round oval, intermediate oval, or long oval)
- Use the manufacturer's sizing chart (not a generic one)
- Order from a retailer with free returns
- Plan to potentially return 1-2 helmets before finding the right fit
The better option: Come to Sprocketz for a free 15-minute fitting. We'll measure your head shape, find your size, and you'll know exactly what to order - even if you buy somewhere else (even though we offer price matching on most items). We just want you safe.
Question 3: "What's the Difference Between DOT, SNELL, and ECE? Do I Need All Three?"
Plain English explanation:
These are different safety organizations that test helmets. Think of them like different crash test ratings for cars.
DOT (Department of Transportation)
- US legal minimum standard
- Tests basic impact absorption, penetration resistance, and chin strap strength
- Self-certified by manufacturers (they test their own helmets)
- Reality check: Some cheap helmets barely meet DOT minimum
ECE 22.06 (Economic Commission for Europe)
- European standard, updated in 2020, Fully transitioned in January 2024.
- Tests impacts at multiple points on the helmet
- Includes rotational impact testing (your brain twisting during a crash)
- Independent lab testing (more trustworthy than self-certification)
- Becoming the preferred standard in the US
SNELL M2020/M2025
- Independent nonprofit testing organization
- Stricter impact testing than DOT (higher energy impacts)
- Popular in the racing community
- Most tested of any of the 3 certifications
Do you need all three?
No. For your first street helmet, look for DOT + ECE 22.06 as a minimum. You don't need all three certifications to be safe.
How to check: Look inside the helmet for certification stickers. DOT stickers are usually on the back outside. ECE and SNELL stickers are inside the helmet liner or on the back of the helmet.Helmet Types Explained (Which One Is Right for Beginners?)
There are four main helmet types. Here's what you need to know about each - and which one most new riders should start with.
Full-Face Helmets (Our Top Pick for Beginners) ⭐
What it is: Complete coverage with a chin bar and face shield that covers your entire head.
Best for: Maximum protection, all riding styles, highway speeds
Pros:
- Best safety (protects your chin and jaw - 45% of impact zones)
- Weather protection (rain, wind, bugs stay out)
- Noise reduction (less wind noise at highway speeds)
- Most aerodynamic (less head buffeting)
Cons:
- Can feel claustrophobic at first (you'll get used to it)
- Slightly heavier than open-face options
- Harder to put on/take off (especially with glasses)
Who should buy this:
Modern full-face helmets don't look dorky. Check out the AGV K1 or Icon Airflite graphics - aggressive, sharp, Instagram-worthy. And bonus: you can mount a GoPro for those parkway run videos.
94% of experienced riders choose full-face for touring. There's a reason - protection matters at highway speeds, and wind noise gets exhausting on long rides. A good full-face pays for itself in comfort alone.
Modern full-face helmets are significantly lighter than 10 years ago. If you're worried about neck strain, look for helmets in the 3-3.2 lb range (we'll help you find them). Consider a modular option (see below) for easier on/off.
Recommended starter models:
- HJC i11 ($189+) - Great all-around, light for the price
- Scorpion EXO-R430 ($199) - Best budget full-face
- Shoei RF-1400 - Excellent ventilation for summer, Best protection
- Arai Contour-x, Corsair-x, Signet-x, Quantum-x - Excellent protection, superior fit, optional different shell shapes to accommodate a wide range of all riders
Modular Helmets (Best for Glasses Wearers & Convenience)
What it is: Modular helmets are essentially full-face helmets where the chin bar flips up, converting to an open-face helmet. Think of it as a convertible.
Best for: Convenience, glasses wearers, touring riders, anyone who values easy on/off
Pros:
- Easy to put on and take off (huge for glasses wearers)
- Can flip up at gas stops or traffic lights without removing helmet
- Still provides full-face protection when closed
- Great for people with mobility limitations
Cons:
- Heavier than standard full-face (hinge mechanism adds weight, typically 3.5-4 lbs)
- More expensive (usually $50-$100 more than comparable full-face)
- Slightly less safe than full-face (hinge is a potential weak point, though still very protective)
- More complex mechanism = more things that can break
Who should buy this:
This is our #1 seller for riders 55+. Way easier to get on and off, especially if you have any neck stiffness or limited mobility. You can flip it up to talk to people at stops without removing it completely.
Popular with touring riders for convenience at gas stops. You can flip up, grab a drink, chat with other riders, then flip back down and go. Saves the hassle of full removal.
Important note: Always ride with the chin bar DOWN. A modular helmet with the chin bar up is just an expensive open-face helmet.
Recommended starter models:
- HJC i91 ($289) - Solid entry-level modular
- Scorpion EXO-AT960 ($314) - Adventure-style modular, great ventilation
- LS2 Advant-X ($499) - Budget-friendly modular option
Open-Face Helmets (Not Recommended for First-Time Street Riders)
What it is: Open-Face Helmets cover the top, sides, and back of your head but leaves your face exposed. Also called a 3/4 helmet.
Best for: Low-speed cruising, scooters, vintage bikes
Why we don't recommend it for beginners:
According to crash data, approximately 45% of impacts to motorcycle helmets occur in the chin bar area. An open-face helmet leaves your face, jaw, and chin completely unprotected.
We've seen the aftermath. It's not pretty.
If you absolutely must have an open-face:
- Only for low-speed, around-town cruising (under 40 mph)
- Look for DOT certification at minimum
- Consider a face shield (not just goggles)
- Understand you're accepting significantly more risk
Better alternative: Get a modular helmet and flip it up when you're stopped. You get the wind-in-your-face experience without the safety compromise.
Half Helmets (Please Don't)
What it is: Half Helmets only cover the top of your head. Also called a "brain bucket" or "novelty helmet."
If D.O.T then they are legal in Virginia but offer minimal protection. In a crash, they basically protect the one part of your head that's least likely to hit the ground.
Our recommendation: Skip it. If you want minimal helmet feel, get a lightweight full-face (under 3 lbs) or a modular one you can flip up at stops.
Which Helmet Type Should YOU Choose?
Answer these 4 questions:
1. Do you wear glasses?
Yes → Modular helmet (easier to get on/off). However, most high-end helmets offer cut-outs for your glasses and fit most frames easily.
No → Continue
2. Will you ride on highways regularly?
Yes → Full-face (better protection at speed)
No → Continue
3. Is weight a major concern (neck strength, comfort)?
Yes → Full-face (lighter than modular by 0.5-1 lb)
No → Continue
4. Do you prioritize convenience over maximum safety?
Yes → Modular (easier to use, still very safe)
No → Full-face (maximum protection)
Bottom line: For most first-time street riders, we recommend starting with a full-face helmet. Skip open-face unless you're only doing very low-speed cruising.
Understanding Safety Certifications (In Plain English)
You'll see DOT, SNELL, and ECE stickers inside helmets. Here's what they actually mean - and which ones matter for you.
The Three Main Safety Standards
DOT (Department of Transportation) - US Legal Minimum
This is the baseline. Every helmet sold in the US must meet DOT standards or it's illegal to wear on public roads in Virginia.
What DOT tests:
- Impact absorption (can it protect your head in a crash?)
- Penetration resistance (can a sharp object puncture it?)
- Chin strap strength (will it stay on your head?)
The catch: DOT is self-certified. Manufacturers test their own helmets and stamp them DOT-approved. There's oversight, but it's not as rigorous as independent lab testing.
Real talk: Some cheap helmets barely meet DOT minimum. Just because it has a DOT sticker doesn't mean it's a quality helmet. This is why we recommend looking for additional certifications.
ECE 22.06 (Economic Commission for Europe) - The New Gold Standard
This is the European safety standard, recently updated in 2020 to version 22.06. It's becoming the preferred certification in the US, even though it's not legally required here.
What ECE 22.06 tests that DOT doesn't:
- Multiple impact points (DOT only tests a few spots)
- Rotational impact forces (your brain twisting during a crash)
- Face shield strength and retention
- Visor test for peripheral vision
- Independent lab testing (not self-certified)
Why it matters: ECE 22.06 is more comprehensive and trustworthy than DOT alone. Many riders now consider it the real benchmark for helmet safety.
Current status: The older ECE 22.05 is being phased out. Look for the newer 22.06 designation.
SNELL M2020/M2025 - The Best Standard / Most tested of all of the certifications
SNELL is an independent nonprofit that tests helmets to very strict standards, particularly for high-speed impacts.
What SNELL tests:
- Higher energy impacts than DOT or ECE
- More impact locations
- Stricter chin bar testing
- Positional stability (helmet staying in place during crash)
Who needs SNELL: Anyone looking for the best protection available for motorcycle helmets
FIM (Fédération Internationale de Motocyclisme) - European Racing Standard
This is the international motorcycle racing certification. You'll only see this on very high-end racing helmets ($600+).
Do you need it? If you are looking for the highest level of safety, then this might be the helmet selection for you.
What Should You Look For?
Our recommendation for first-time street riders:
- Minimum: DOT + ECE 22.06
- Better: DOT + SNELL
Don't stress if you can't afford all three. A properly-fitting helmet with DOT + ECE 22.06 will protect you just fine for street riding.
How to Check Certifications
DOT: Look for a DOT sticker on the back exterior of the helmet (usually bottom edge)
ECE: Look inside the helmet liner for an ECE tag (will say "ECE 22.06" or "ECE 22.05")
SNELL: Look inside the helmet liner for a SNELL sticker (will say "M2020" or "M2025")
Red flag: If a helmet claims to meet these standards but you can't find the stickers, walk away. Counterfeit helmets exist, particularly online.
Check out our comprehensive guide to helmet safety ratings blog post for more information.
How to Get the Right Fit (The #1 Thing That Matters)
Here's the truth: A $150 helmet that fits perfectly may protect you better than a $500 helmet that's too loose.
Fit matters more than price, more than brand, more than graphics. Get this right, and everything else falls into place.
Know Your Head Shape First
Most first-time buyers have no idea they have a "head shape." This is the single biggest reason people buy helmets that don't fit right.
The three head shapes:
Round Oval
- Your head is almost circular when viewed from above
- Width approximately equals front-to-back measurement
- Think: basketball shape
- Brands that fit: Arai is the only helmet company that specifically designates different helmet shell shapes (Other companies will fit different heads shapes, but they typically will not inform you what shape) Which is one reason why coming into Sprocketz for a proper helmet fitting will make your selection process simple, quick, and informative.
Intermediate Oval (Most Common)
- Your head is slightly longer front-to-back than it is wide
- About 3:4 ratio
- Think: slightly elongated circle
- Brands that fit: Most brands will be a standard intermediate oval shape (Bell, HJC, AGV, Scorpion)
Long Oval
- Your head is significantly longer front-to-back than it is wide
- Think: egg shape
- Brands that fit: Arai is the only helmet company that specifically designates different helmet shell shapes (Other companies will fit different heads shapes, but they typically will not inform you what shape) Which is one reason why coming into Sprocketz for a proper helmet fitting will make your selection process simple, quick, and informative.
Why this matters:
If you have a long oval head and you try on a round oval helmet, it'll feel "tight on the temples" and "loose on the forehead and back." You might think "I need a bigger size" - but you actually need a different head shape.
This is the mistake that costs people hundreds of dollars and months of headaches (literally).
How to figure out your head shape:
Option 1: Come to Sprocketz for a free fitment. It takes 5 minutes. We'll tell you exactly what you are.
Option 2: Try on helmets from different brands and pay attention to where you feel pressure. If one brand fits perfectly and another of the same size feels terrible, you've found your head shape match.
Option 3: Use our online sizing guide, which includes head shape instructions.
The Fit Tests
A properly fitting helmet should feel almost uncomfortably snug when it's brand new. Here's how to test it:
1. The Forehead Test
- Put the helmet on
- Try to fit two fingers flat between your forehead and the inside liner
- If you can fit two fingers: Helmet is too big
- If you can only fit one finger to your first knuckle or less with minimal pressure = Good fit
2. The Cheek Pad Test
- With helmet on, your cheeks should be compressed slightly
- You should feel as if you would not be able to chew gum comfortably, even pressure on your cheeks
- Your skin should bunch up slightly (you might look like a chipmunk)
- If your cheeks aren't touching the pads: Too big
- If you can barely close your jaw: Too small
3. The Rotation Test
- Buckle the chin strap
- Put your hands on both sides of the helmet
- Try to rotate the helmet left and right
- The helmet should not move independently of your head
- If the helmet rotates and your skin doesn't: Too big
4. The Roll-Off Test
- Leave chin strap unbuckled
- Try to roll the helmet off from back to front
- You should not be able to remove it without significant effort
- If it slides off easily: Way too big
5. The Vision Test
- Look straight ahead through the face shield
- Look up, down, left, right
- Your vision should not be obstructed by the helmet opening
- The helmet should move with your head, not slide around
Break-In Period Reality Check
Here's what most first-time buyers don't know: Helmets loosen up 10% after the first 10 hours of wear, or 1,000 miles of usage.
The comfort liner compresses. The cheek pads soften. What feels snug on day one will feel comfortable by week three.
This is why experienced riders buy helmets that feel slightly tight at first.
The mistake: Buying a helmet that feels "comfortable" in the store. Two months later, it's loose, sliding around, and not protecting you properly. You can't return it. You just wasted $200-$500.
The correct approach:
- Buy a helmet that feels snug (almost uncomfortably so)
- No pressure points or pain, but definitely snug
- After 10 hours of riding, it'll feel perfect
How to know if it's too tight vs. just snug:
- Too tight: Pressure points, pain after 5 minutes, headache starting
- Correctly snug: Even pressure, no pain, just tight
Trying On Your First Helmet (What to Expect in the Store)
When you come to Sprocketz (or any shop) for a helmet fitting, here's what should happen:
1. Initial Assessment (5 minutes)
- Staff measures your head circumference
- Determines your head shape (round/intermediate/long oval)
- Asks about your riding style (street, touring, commuting)
2. First Helmet Try-On (5 minutes)
- Staff selects 2-3 helmets in your size and head shape
- You try on the first one
- Staff checks for proper fit (cheek compression, forehead pressure)
- You walk around for a few minutes
3. Comparison Try-Ons (10-15 minutes)
- Try on the remaining helmets
- Compare how each feels
- Pay attention to pressure points, comfort, weight
- Test visibility through face shield
4. Extended Wear Test (10 minutes)
- Once you narrow it down to your top choice, wear it for at least 10 minutes
- Sit down, stand up, turn your head, simulate riding position
- If it starts hurting after 5 minutes, it's too small
- If it gets more comfortable after 10 minutes, that's a good sign
Total time: Plan for 30-40 minutes for a proper fitting. If a salesperson rushes you in 5 minutes, that's a red flag.
Common Fit Problems and What They Mean
Problem: Pressure on temples, loose on forehead
- Cause: Wrong head shape (you have long oval, helmet is round oval)
- Fix: Try a different brand designed for long oval heads
Problem: Tight on forehead, loose on sides
- Cause: Wrong head shape (you have round oval, helmet is long oval)
- Fix: Try a different brand designed for round oval heads
Problem: Feels good everywhere except painful on top of head
- Cause: Helmet shell is too small, crown of your head hitting the top
- Fix: Size up (or different model with more vertical room)
Problem: Cheek pads feel fine, but helmet slides forward and back
- Cause: Helmet is too big
- Fix: Size down
Problem: Everything feels good for 5 minutes, then pressure headache starts
- Cause: Helmet is slightly too small or wrong shape
- Fix: Size up or try different head shape
For more information, check out our blog post on Ensuring the Perfect Helmet Fit.
Budget Reality: What You Actually Get at Each Price Point
Let's talk money. Here's exactly what you're paying for when you jump from $150 to $300 to $500.
Budget Tier: $100-$200
What you get:
- DOT certification (legal minimum)
- Basic impact protection
- Heavier weight (3.5-4 lbs)
- Minimal ventilation (2-3 fixed vents)
- Basic comfort liner
- Simple face shield (no anti-fog coating)
- Louder ride (more wind noise)
- Basic graphics and finish
What you don't get:
- ECE or SNELL certification
- Lightweight construction
- Good ventilation for hot weather
- Anti-fog face shield
- Emergency quick-release system
- Premium comfort
Best for:
- Very tight budget
- Short rides only (under 30 minutes)
- Getting started until you can afford better
- Riders who plan to upgrade soon
Reality check: These helmets will keep you legal and provide basic protection. They're just not comfortable for long rides, and you'll feel the difference in weight and noise.
Our top budget picks:
- LS2 Assault ($179) - Solid entry point, surprisingly light for the price
- HJC i11 ($179+) - Better comfort than most at this price
- Scorpion EXO-R430 ($199) - Best value budget helmet, includes drop-down sun visor
Who buys these: New riders on a very tight budget, people who need something immediately, riders planning to upgrade within 6-12 months.
Mid-Tier: $200-$500 ⭐
What you get:
- DOT + ECE 22.06 certification
- Better ventilation (4-6 adjustable vents)
- Lighter weight (3-3.5 lbs)
- Removable/washable liner
- Better aerodynamics = less wind noise
- Anti-scratch face shield (often with Pinlock anti-fog)
- Emergency quick-release cheek pads
- Better quality control (fewer defects)
- Improved comfort padding
- Better graphics and paint quality
What you don't get:
- SNELL certification (usually)
- Lightest weight (still 3+ lbs)
- Ultra-quiet ride (good but not best)
- Premium materials (carbon fiber, fancy liners)
- All the bells and whistles
Best for:
- Riders looking to upgrade their basic helmet
- Highway and commuting use
- Anyone who wants quality without breaking the bank
Our top mid-tier picks:
- Excellent ventilation (great for Virginia summers)
- Transitions face shield (auto-tinting)
- Wide size range
- Best for: Riders who prioritize airflow and versatility
- Excellent value for the price
- Good aerodynamics (quiet for the price point)
- Drop-down sun visor included
- Best for: Sport and sport-touring riders
HJC i11 ($179+)
- Modular (flip-up chin bar)
- Great for glasses wearers
- Lighter than most modular helmets
- Best for: Convenience, touring, anyone who wants easy on/off
- Entry-level Shoei (premium brand, entry price)
- Excellent build quality
- Very quiet for the price
- Best for: Riders who want Shoei quality without $500+ price
Who buys these: Budget riders that are looking for a little bit more comfort and features than an entry level option.
Premium Tier: $500+
What you get:
- DOT + ECE 22.06 + SNELL certification
- Lightest weight (2.8-3.2 lbs - huge difference on long rides)
- Best noise reduction (quietest helmets available)
- Premium comfort materials
- Carbon fiber or fiberglass shells
- Advanced ventilation systems (8+ vents, optimized airflow)
- Best aerodynamics (wind tunnel tested)
- Emergency quick-release systems
- Premium Pinlock anti-fog shields included
- Best quality control and warranty
- Most advanced safety features (MIPS, multi-density EPS)
What you don't get:
- Honestly? Not much. You're paying for the absolute best.
Best for: These are our top recommendations for helmets. As mentioned above, purchasing a top tier helmet is the best investment you can make when purchasing motorcycle gear.
Our top premium picks:
- Gold standard for sport/sport-touring
- Incredibly quiet
- Ultra-comfortable
- Best for: Serious sport-touring riders who log big miles
- Race-bred design
- Excellent aerodynamics
- Lightweight (3.0 lbs)
- Best for: Sport riders, track day enthusiasts
- Hand-built in Japan
- Excellent ventilation and quiet ride
- Legendary quality and comfort
- Best for: Riders looking for the best overall helmet experience
Who buys these: Experienced riders, touring enthusiasts, track day regulars, riders who know exactly what they're getting for the price.
So What Should YOU Spend?
Our honest recommendation based on riding plans:
You're on a very tight budget (under $200):
- Get the best you can afford in the $150-$180 range
- Plan to upgrade when finances allow
You're a new rider planning to ride regularly ($200-$350):
- Invest in the $250-$300 range
- You'll be happy with it for years
- Good enough for highway, touring, everything
You know you're looking for the best protection ($500+):
- Premium is worth it
- The weight and noise reduction matter on long rides
- Think of it as cost-per-mile (a $500 helmet over 5 years = $100/year)
You're not sure yet:
- Start mid-tier ($250-$300)
- Upgrade later if you become a serious rider
- Don't overbuy before you know your riding style
Other Features to Consider (But Don't Obsess Over)
These features are nice to have but shouldn't make or break your decision as a beginner.
Drop-Down Sun Visor (Internal Sun Shield)
What it is: A tinted visor built into the helmet that drops down from inside (usually via a lever or slider on the side).
Pros:
- Convenience (no need to swap face shields or wear sunglasses)
- Quick adjustment for tunnels or changing light
- One less thing to carry
Cons:
- Adds weight (small amount)
- Adds cost ($30-$50)
- Another mechanism that can break
- No Snell approved helmets with internal drop down sun visors. (Arai offers a pro shield that has an external sun visor that maintains Snell approval)
Do you need it? Not essential. You can wear sunglasses or buy a tinted face shield for $40. But if two helmets are otherwise equal, it's a nice feature to have.
Our take: Nice to have, not a deal breaker. Don't choose a worse-fitting helmet just because it has a sun visor.
Pinlock Anti-Fog Insert
What it is: A clear plastic insert that attaches to the inside of your face shield, creating a dual-pane "thermal barrier" like a double-pane window. Prevents fogging in cold or humid weather.
Pros:
- Best anti-fog option on the market
- Essential for cold weather riding
Cons:
- Adds cost
Do you need it? If you are tired of other anti fog methods that are less effective, then a helmet with a pinlock is for you.
Our take: Very useful feature, especially in Virginia's spring and fall when mornings are cold and days are warm. If the helmet comes with one, great. If not, you can add it later to helmets prepared with a pinlock shield
Face Shield Options
Clear shield: Standard, works for all conditions (you wear sunglasses)
Tinted shield: Like sunglasses for your helmet, only use during day
Photochromic shield: Auto-tinting (dark in sun, clear at night) - cool but expensive ($100+)
Our take: Start with clear shield. Buy a tinted shield later if you want ($40-$60).
Ventilation Systems
More vents = cooler in summer. Adjustable vents = better year-round use.
Budget helmets: Usually 2-3 fixed vents (not adjustable)
Mid-tier: 4-6 vents with open/close function
Premium: 8+ vents with optimized airflow paths
Do you need maximum ventilation? Depends. If you ride in Virginia summers (95°F, humid), yes, ventilation matters. If you mostly ride spring/fall, it's less critical.
Our take: At minimum, make sure the helmet has chin vents and forehead vents that you can close in winter.
Weight
Why it matters: Neck fatigue on rides over 1 hour. A 1 lb difference doesn't sound like much, but your neck will feel it after 100 miles.
Average weights:
- Budget helmets: 3.5-4 lbs
- Mid-tier: 3-3.5 lbs
- Premium: 2.8-3.2 lbs
- Carbon fiber: 2.6-2.9 lbs
Who should prioritize light weight:
- Long-distance touring riders
- Anyone with neck or back issues
Our take: Under 3.5 lbs is fine for most riders. Under 3 lbs is noticeably better. Under 2.8 lbs is premium territory.
Retention System (Chin Strap)
D-ring: Two metal D-rings you thread the strap through. Classic, secure, takes practice to master.
Quick-release: Push-button or micrometric ratchet system. Easier to use, slightly less secure.
Our take: Learn the D-ring. It's the standard for a reason (most secure, least likely to fail). Takes a week to get fast at it. Quick-release is fine but usually only on premium helmets.
Bluetooth/Communication Ready
What it means: The helmet has recessed pockets for Bluetooth speaker installation, or cutouts for microphone placement.
Do you need it? Great option for new riders that would like to be able to get real time adjustments on riding from fellow riders, or make emergency phone calls as needed.
Our take: Don't make this a decision factor. If you decide you want comms in 6 months, you can add it to almost any helmet. And we’ll even install them for you for free.
Emergency Quick-Release Cheek Pads
What it is: Red tabs on the cheek pads that EMTs can pull to remove the helmet from an injured rider without moving their head/neck.
Do you need it? Most mid-tier and premium helmets have this. Budget helmets often don't.
Our take: Nice safety feature. EMTs appreciate it. Not a dealbreaker, but if two helmets are otherwise equal, choose the one with emergency release.
Common First-Helmet Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
We see these mistakes every week. Learn from other people's expensive lessons.
Mistake #1: Buying Too Big
The mistake: "This helmet feels really tight. I should size up for comfort."
Why it's wrong: Helmets break in and loosen 10%. What feels "comfortable" in the store will be sliding around in a month.
The consequence: Loose helmet = less protection, more wind noise, head bobbing on the highway, can't return it after wearing it.
How to avoid it: Buy a helmet that feels snug (almost uncomfortably so) when new. No pain or pressure points, but definitely tight. Trust the fit test, not your comfort instinct.
Mistake #2: Prioritizing Graphics Over Fit
The mistake: "That helmet has the coolest design! I'll make it work even though it doesn't fit quite right."
Why it's wrong: A cool-looking helmet that doesn't fit will give you headaches, won't protect you properly, and you'll hate wearing it.
The consequence: $200-$500 wasted, months of uncomfortable rides, eventually buying a second helmet that actually fits.
How to avoid it: Find the right fit FIRST, then choose your favorite color/graphic from the options that fit. Fit > Graphics. Always.
Real story: Mike (our staff member) bought an Icon Airframe in 2008 purely for the graphics. It didn't match his long oval head shape. He suffered temple headaches for 6 months before finally getting fitted properly. $220 wasted lesson.
Mistake #3: Skipping the In-Person Try-On
The mistake: "I'll just order a medium based on the size chart. How hard can it be?"
Why it's wrong: Size charts don't account for head shape. A medium HJC fits completely differently than a medium Shoei.
The consequence: Return shipping costs, weeks without a helmet, potential restocking fees, trying on helmets at home without expert guidance.
How to avoid it:
- Best: Visit Sprocketz for a free fitting. We'll find your size and shape in 15 minutes.
- Acceptable: Order from a retailer with free returns and plan to order 2-3 helmets to try on at home.
- Risky: Just guessing and hoping for the best.
Mistake #4: Only Looking at DOT Certification
The mistake: "It's DOT approved, so it's safe. That's all I need to check."
Why it's wrong: DOT is self-certified by manufacturers and is the bare minimum standard. Some cheap helmets barely pass.
The consequence: You might be wearing a helmet that's technically "legal" but not actually protective in a real crash.
How to avoid it: Look for DOT + ECE 22.06 at minimum. If budget allows, add SNELL. More certifications = more independent testing = more confidence.
Mistake #5: Buying Used
The mistake: "I found a $500 Shoei on Craigslist for $150! Great deal!"
Why it's wrong: You can't verify:
- If it's been in a crash (even a minor drop can compromise the EPS liner)
- How old it is (helmets degrade over 5 years from UV, sweat, compression)
- If it's counterfeit (yes, fake Shoeis exist)
- If the previous owner's head sweat and oils have degraded the liner
The consequence: You might be wearing a compromised helmet that won't protect you properly.
How to avoid it: Buy new. Even if it means getting a budget new helmet instead of a used premium one. Your brain is worth the extra $50-$100.
Exception: If you personally know the seller, know the helmet's history, and it's less than 2 years old, maybe. But still risky.
Mistake #6: Forgetting Virginia Law
The mistake: "I'll just wear my bicycle helmet / skiing helmet / vintage helmet from the 70s."
Why it's wrong: Every state has their own motorcycle helmet laws. Virginia requires DOT-approved motorcycle helmets for all riders. Other helmets aren't legal.
The consequence: Ticket, fine, insurance issues if you crash, and most importantly - wrong type of protection.
How to avoid it: Make sure there's a DOT sticker on the back of the helmet. Every helmet at Sprocketz is Virginia-legal. Problem solved.
Mistake #7: Ignoring Head Shape
The mistake: "The salesperson said this is my size, so it must be right."
Why it's wrong: Size is only half the equation. Head shape matters just as much.
The consequence: Pressure points, headaches, a helmet that feels wrong even though it's "the right size."
How to avoid it: Get your head shape measured. Try on helmets from different brands. If one brand causes temple pressure and another feels great, you've found your head shape match.
Your First Helmet Shopping Checklist
Before You Shop:
□ Get head shape measured (free at Sprocketz - takes 5 minutes)
□ Set realistic budget
□ Know your riding style:
- Street/commuting → Full-face
- Touring → Full-face or modular
- Mixed use → Full-face (most versatile)
□ Decide on helmet type:
- Maximum protection → Full-face
- Wear glasses / convenience → Modular
- Budget is very tight → Best full-face you can afford
□ Check Virginia requirements:
- DOT certification required (all our helmets meet this)
- Helmet required for all riders regardless of age
In the Store:
□ Try on at least 3 different brands
- Helmets fit differently even in the same size
- One brand will feel noticeably better
□ Wear each helmet
- Walk around
- Sit down, stand up
- Turn your head side to side
- Look over your shoulders
□ Check for pressure points:
- Should be snug, NOT painful
- No sharp pressure on temples, forehead, or crown
- Cheeks should be compressed but not causing jaw pain
□ Do the "shake test":
- Buckle chin strap
- Grab helmet, try to move it side to side
- Helmet should not move independently of your head
□ Check visibility through face shield:
- Can you see clearly without distortion?
- Can you see your mirrors in riding positions?
- Any blind spots at the edges?
□ Verify certifications:
- DOT sticker on back of helmet
- Look inside for ECE 22.06 or SNELL tags
- Minimum: DOT + ECE 22.06
□ Check the weight:
- Pick up the helmet, feel the weight
- Under 3.5 lbs is ideal for most riders
- If neck strength is a concern, aim for under 3 lbs
Before You Buy:
□ Confirm return policy
- Most companies will not take a helmet back that has been ridden in.
- Some shops charge restocking fees
- Ask about exchange vs. refund
□ Check if face shields are replaceable/affordable
- Clear shields: $40-$60 replacement
- Tinted shields: $50-$70
- Ask about availability
□ Ask about Bluetooth compatibility (if planning to add comms later)
- Does it have speaker pockets?
- Will Cardo/Sena systems fit?
□ Verify Virginia legal
- DOT sticker present and intact
- All helmets at Sprocketz are VA-legal
□ Don't let graphics make the final decision
- Fit first, color second
- Most helmets come in multiple colors
After Purchase:
□ Wear it around the house for 30 minutes before first ride
- Make sure no pressure points develop
- Get used to putting it on/taking it off
- Practice buckling the D-ring
□ Adjust cheek pads/crown liner if needed
- Most helmets have optional thicker/thinner pads
- Ask about this at purchase if fit is close but not perfect
□ Practice D-ring buckling until it's second nature
- Should take 5 seconds once you've got the technique
- YouTube "how to buckle D-ring helmet" if needed
□ Clean face shield properly
- Use microfiber cloth and water
- Never use Windex or harsh chemicals (damages anti-scratch coating)
- Keep Pinlock insert clean (if equipped)
□ Plan for replacement in 5 years
- Or immediately after any crash (even a minor drop)
- Helmets degrade over time (UV, sweat, compression)
- Learn more about knowing when to replace your motorcycle helmet
Where Richmond Riders Buy Their First Helmets
Sprocketz Richmond Showroom
What we offer:
- 40+ helmet models in stock with even more colors and graphics (budget to premium)
- Free head shape measurement & fitting
- Staff are actual riders, not just salespeople
- Price match guarantee
- Easy returns or exchanges if the fit isn't right and the helmet is in new condition and unridden in.
What to expect when you visit:
- We’ll measure your head shape and size
- Try on 5-10 helmets to find the right fit
- Get honest advice about what you actually need
- No pressure, no rush
Can't make it in person?
- Call us with questions: (804) 726-9570
- Use our online helmet sizing guide
- Order online
Address: 7902 W. Broad Street, Richmond, VA 23294
Parking: Ample parking, easy access off I-95
This guide was written by riders, for riders. Our staff has over 40 years of combined riding experience, from track racing to cross-country touring. We fit first-time riders every week, and we remember what it's like to be overwhelmed by your first gear purchase.
We're here to help. No commission. No pressure. Just honest advice from people who ride.
— The Sprocketz Team
Related Articles:
- What Do I Need for My MSF Basic Rider Course?
- Helmet Maintenance: How to Clean Your Motorcycle Helmet
- Types of Motorcycle Helmets Explained
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